Old MacDonald had a farm,
Ee i ee i oh!
Old MacDonald had a farm,
Ee i ee i oh!
And on that farm he had some cows,
Ee i ee i oh!
With a moo-moo here,
And a moo-moo there
Here a moo, there a moo,
Everywhere a moo-moo
Old MacDonald had a farm,
Ee i ee i oh!
Old MacDonald had a farm,
Ee i ee i oh!
And on that farm he had some pigs,
Ee i ee i oh!
With an oink-oink here,
And an oink-oink there
Here an oink, there an oink,
Everywhere an oink-oink
Old MacDonald had a farm,
Ee i ee i oh!
Old MacDonald had a farm,
Ee i ee i oh!
And on that farm he had some sheep,
Ee i ee i oh!
With a baah-baa here,
And a baah-baa there
Here a baah, there a baa,
Everywhere a baah-baa
Old MacDonald had a farm,
Ee i ee i oh!
Old MacDonald had a farm,
Ee i ee i oh!
And on that farm he had some goats,
Ee i ee i oh!
With a meh-me-eh here,
And a meh-me-eh there
Here a meh, there a meh,
Everywhere a meh-me-eh
Old MacDonald had a farm,
Ee i ee i oh!
Old MacDonald had a farm,
Ee i ee i oh!
And on that farm he had some chickens,
Ee i ee i oh!
With a cluck-cluck here,
And a cluck-cluck there
Here a cluck, there a cluck,
Everywhere a cluck-cluck
Old MacDonald had a farm
Ee i ee i oh!
Old MacDonald had a farm,
Ee i ee i oh!
And on that farm he had some dogs,
Ee i ee i oh!
With a woof-woof here,
And a woof-woof-woof there
Here a woof, there a woof,
Everywhere a woof-woof
Old MacDonald had a farm
Ee i ee i oh!
Thank goodness Old MacDonald didn't have an ark, I would be here forever.
Farmyard animals by Warbases.
http://war-bases.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=131_156&page=1
Painting and basing by me.
Since I'm expecting to be a grandfather later this year I am getting used to posting for the younger generation. (I do have some younger generation readers already, don't I?).
Some insights into a crazy world of model soldiers, toys to some, a business to others, an amazing realm where there are no limits other than your imagination, tempered with a bit of research and history.
Followers
Sunday, 14 February 2016
Friday, 12 February 2016
Kallistra Continentals
Here is my first stab at the Kallistra Continentals.
I'm not too impressed with them, I think I used too bright a blue for their coats.
They are useable and they pass my 4 foot rule.
I'm happier with these coos.
These Grenadiers wait patiently.
As do these WSS units.
Just started these guys.
Will post some more soon.
I'm not too impressed with them, I think I used too bright a blue for their coats.
They are useable and they pass my 4 foot rule.
I'm happier with these coos.
These Grenadiers wait patiently.
As do these WSS units.
Just started these guys.
Will post some more soon.
Sunday, 7 February 2016
The Big Buy at Vapnartak 2016
OK Guys, here's what I got at Vapnartak this morning.
3 boxes of 28 mm Perry Continental infantry.
Each box has a command sprue, 4 figures, 2 rifleman sprues, 4 figures and 6 rank and file sprue, 30 figures. That's 114 figures but only 3 command elements making three 38 figure units. Too big for me.
If I buy another 4 command sprues and 5 riflemen sprues that makes 140 figures but crucially 7 command elements allowing me to make seven 20 figure units. Probably a lot nearer my requirements. Time to do some mail order.
I took pity on Pete Berry and cleared him out of AWI packs for the day. These will give 16 units each of 6 mm British and Rebels.
I'll do a more detailed breakdown of the packs in due course.
I got 6 packs of Kallistra 12 mm AWI Continentals and I hope to get at least 6 units of Continental infantry out of them. See my later comments on unit breakdowns.
I added a few more bottles of paint to my collection.
Finally I bought a set of British Grenadier rules which came highly recommended to me from a number of directions.
I need to study their requirements for a number of things, unit sizes, figures sizes, base sizes, number of figures per base, compatibility with Black Powder, scenario requirements and probably a few more things when I get there.
Finally, finally, I got some farmyard animals for Old MacDonald, formerly known as my old chum Dave (although he constantly reminds me that he is not as old as me).
So, what do you think of my approach to my new period AWI?
I aim to get a better understanding of the pros and cons of this over that. I get a better understanding of what I want for myself. I get some units which I should be able to sell for charity if I don't keep them for myself. I might be able to help others answer their own questions in this area.
Win, win all round.
On the down side I got my photograph taken with these guys.
3 boxes of 28 mm Perry Continental infantry.
Each box has a command sprue, 4 figures, 2 rifleman sprues, 4 figures and 6 rank and file sprue, 30 figures. That's 114 figures but only 3 command elements making three 38 figure units. Too big for me.
If I buy another 4 command sprues and 5 riflemen sprues that makes 140 figures but crucially 7 command elements allowing me to make seven 20 figure units. Probably a lot nearer my requirements. Time to do some mail order.
I took pity on Pete Berry and cleared him out of AWI packs for the day. These will give 16 units each of 6 mm British and Rebels.
I'll do a more detailed breakdown of the packs in due course.
I got 6 packs of Kallistra 12 mm AWI Continentals and I hope to get at least 6 units of Continental infantry out of them. See my later comments on unit breakdowns.
I added a few more bottles of paint to my collection.
Finally I bought a set of British Grenadier rules which came highly recommended to me from a number of directions.
I need to study their requirements for a number of things, unit sizes, figures sizes, base sizes, number of figures per base, compatibility with Black Powder, scenario requirements and probably a few more things when I get there.
Finally, finally, I got some farmyard animals for Old MacDonald, formerly known as my old chum Dave (although he constantly reminds me that he is not as old as me).
So, what do you think of my approach to my new period AWI?
I aim to get a better understanding of the pros and cons of this over that. I get a better understanding of what I want for myself. I get some units which I should be able to sell for charity if I don't keep them for myself. I might be able to help others answer their own questions in this area.
Win, win all round.
On the down side I got my photograph taken with these guys.
Thursday, 4 February 2016
Pinning Plastic Cavalry
Someone recently asked for a tutorial on pinning figures. There are probably dozens of them out there on the interweb. Never mind, here is my way.
I started with a box of WSS cavalry from Wargames Factory.
In the box there are four sprues of multi-part riders, lots of parts but only enough legs for three riders. Lots of arms, lots of heads, lots of equipment. I'll detail them in a later post.
There are also three sprues of horse bits, four horses per sprue.
Also included are 12 bases.
The horse sprue comes with four left horse sides, four right horse sides, four heads, four tails and four saddle blankets. You will use all of these.
The riders sprue comes with three pairs of legs, thirteen torsos, sixteen heads and umpteen arms and weapons and fiddly bits. You will not use all of these so the unused bits will boost your bits box.
The eight half horses are unique and can be assembled in a variety of combinations.
As you will see some of them will stand freely and some of them won't hence the pinning requirement.
Using a mini drill bit in a pin vise carefully drill a hole up through the hoof and as far up the centre of the leg as you can manage although 5-10 mm will probably do. You will know if you are about to drill too far as the plastic will start to turn white-ish at the point of exit, stop when this happens.
Do this for each leg that comes into contact with the ground or near enough. Legs in the air will not get pinned.
Get some soft wire. I used the wire from a spiral bound notebook but a paperclip or copper electrical wire will do. As long as it is thin enough in comparison with the horse leg and the same size as your drill bit it will be fine.
Cut short pieces of wire and using liquid polystyrene cement glue them into each of the holes. Don't be afraid to fill the hole with cement before inserting the wire, any excess can be wiped away.
Your horses will now look like this.
Position each horse over a base and mark the positions of the wires. Drill these holes right through the base. Some of the holes will be at an angle depending on the particular leg.
Fill these holes with cement, apply more cement to the wires and the bottom of the hooves and place all the wires into their respective holes. Press and hold the horse to the base firmly for a couple of minutes until the cement is fairly firm. Add more cement if need be. The hooves will be partially hidden by your scenic bases so it doesn't have to be particularly tidy as long as it is firm.
Add more cement to the protruding wire underneath the base.
At this point I would leave the models overnight so that the cement is as fully cured as possible. The next step is a bit stressful and you don't want any glued joins to come undone.
Snip off as much of the protruding wire as possible and then file the remaining stump flush to the underside of the base. This is where the wire being soft comes in handy.
Any remaining weakness in the joins can receive another treatment of cement. I cover the underside of the base in magnetic tape so any untidiness there will be covered up.
The horses should now stand freely, if not you've mucked something up somewhere, fix it now.
It's a simple case here of adding the heads, tails and saddle blankets. I boo-boo'd here in that the horses tails were meant to be inserted before the horse halves were glued together. A quick trim with a modelling knife sorted that.
I cleaned up any remaining mould lines and filled any gaps with liquid cement. Clever folks would perhaps use modelling paste but I didn't.
I built up a trio of riders, simple swordsmen in a charging pose. There are lots of options on the sprue which I will detail later but it will be possible to model cuirassiers, standard heavy cavalry, dragoons even as well as officers and musicians.
I think they are coming out quite nicely, can't wait to get the rest of the unit built up. (Yes, I spotted the mould lines that I missed earlier)
I started with a box of WSS cavalry from Wargames Factory.
In the box there are four sprues of multi-part riders, lots of parts but only enough legs for three riders. Lots of arms, lots of heads, lots of equipment. I'll detail them in a later post.
There are also three sprues of horse bits, four horses per sprue.
Also included are 12 bases.
The horse sprue comes with four left horse sides, four right horse sides, four heads, four tails and four saddle blankets. You will use all of these.
The riders sprue comes with three pairs of legs, thirteen torsos, sixteen heads and umpteen arms and weapons and fiddly bits. You will not use all of these so the unused bits will boost your bits box.
The eight half horses are unique and can be assembled in a variety of combinations.
As you will see some of them will stand freely and some of them won't hence the pinning requirement.
Using a mini drill bit in a pin vise carefully drill a hole up through the hoof and as far up the centre of the leg as you can manage although 5-10 mm will probably do. You will know if you are about to drill too far as the plastic will start to turn white-ish at the point of exit, stop when this happens.
Do this for each leg that comes into contact with the ground or near enough. Legs in the air will not get pinned.
Get some soft wire. I used the wire from a spiral bound notebook but a paperclip or copper electrical wire will do. As long as it is thin enough in comparison with the horse leg and the same size as your drill bit it will be fine.
Cut short pieces of wire and using liquid polystyrene cement glue them into each of the holes. Don't be afraid to fill the hole with cement before inserting the wire, any excess can be wiped away.
Your horses will now look like this.
Position each horse over a base and mark the positions of the wires. Drill these holes right through the base. Some of the holes will be at an angle depending on the particular leg.
Fill these holes with cement, apply more cement to the wires and the bottom of the hooves and place all the wires into their respective holes. Press and hold the horse to the base firmly for a couple of minutes until the cement is fairly firm. Add more cement if need be. The hooves will be partially hidden by your scenic bases so it doesn't have to be particularly tidy as long as it is firm.
Add more cement to the protruding wire underneath the base.
At this point I would leave the models overnight so that the cement is as fully cured as possible. The next step is a bit stressful and you don't want any glued joins to come undone.
Snip off as much of the protruding wire as possible and then file the remaining stump flush to the underside of the base. This is where the wire being soft comes in handy.
Any remaining weakness in the joins can receive another treatment of cement. I cover the underside of the base in magnetic tape so any untidiness there will be covered up.
The horses should now stand freely, if not you've mucked something up somewhere, fix it now.
It's a simple case here of adding the heads, tails and saddle blankets. I boo-boo'd here in that the horses tails were meant to be inserted before the horse halves were glued together. A quick trim with a modelling knife sorted that.
I cleaned up any remaining mould lines and filled any gaps with liquid cement. Clever folks would perhaps use modelling paste but I didn't.
I built up a trio of riders, simple swordsmen in a charging pose. There are lots of options on the sprue which I will detail later but it will be possible to model cuirassiers, standard heavy cavalry, dragoons even as well as officers and musicians.
I think they are coming out quite nicely, can't wait to get the rest of the unit built up. (Yes, I spotted the mould lines that I missed earlier)
Wednesday, 3 February 2016
WSS - Artillery
My assault on the lead, plastic and resin pile continues. This time I picked on a box of War of the Spanish Succession Artillery by Wargames Factory.
I don't recall what the price was but I expect it was about £18. Wargames Factory products are now being marketed by Warlord Games and this box has not appeared on their store website yet.
In the box you get two identical sprues.
Each sprue includes a mounted officer with alternative arms, 4 gunners also with alternative arms, a gun with two barrel options, some barrels and a bucket etc.
The horse and the gunners are not moulded with bases.
Fortunately some bases are included in the box.
I had to do some drilling and pinning before painting them.
Here is how they turned out.
Here is the mounted officer waving to the troops. He has an option of a sabre if you wanted him to be leading a charge.
I have painted the gun crew to represent British Royal Artillery before they changed to their blue uniform.
They are individually based so I can represent crew casualties if need be. The top layer of the gun base is 2 mm thick plastic card. I marked and cut out the squares where the crew stand. The crew bases are 20 mm square so the cutouts are 21-22 mm square to allow some clearance. I then glued a layer of steel paper with the green side upwards over the entire base. Finally I peeled off the covering sheet underneath and covered the entire base with magnetic tape sticky side up. The two sticky layers together helps counteract any warping of the magnetic tape. The texturing is a variety of plaster, pebbles and sand.
I have glued the gun directly to the base as artillery was not limbered up and moved about much in this period. Note the differing effects of the pebbles, sand and tufts on the base.
I chose the 8 pounder barrel option as opposed to the 12 pounder.
Note the special tufts with white flowers. I got mine from Warbases.
I don't recall what the price was but I expect it was about £18. Wargames Factory products are now being marketed by Warlord Games and this box has not appeared on their store website yet.
In the box you get two identical sprues.
Each sprue includes a mounted officer with alternative arms, 4 gunners also with alternative arms, a gun with two barrel options, some barrels and a bucket etc.
The horse and the gunners are not moulded with bases.
Fortunately some bases are included in the box.
I had to do some drilling and pinning before painting them.
Here is how they turned out.
Here is the mounted officer waving to the troops. He has an option of a sabre if you wanted him to be leading a charge.
I have painted the gun crew to represent British Royal Artillery before they changed to their blue uniform.
They are individually based so I can represent crew casualties if need be. The top layer of the gun base is 2 mm thick plastic card. I marked and cut out the squares where the crew stand. The crew bases are 20 mm square so the cutouts are 21-22 mm square to allow some clearance. I then glued a layer of steel paper with the green side upwards over the entire base. Finally I peeled off the covering sheet underneath and covered the entire base with magnetic tape sticky side up. The two sticky layers together helps counteract any warping of the magnetic tape. The texturing is a variety of plaster, pebbles and sand.
I have glued the gun directly to the base as artillery was not limbered up and moved about much in this period. Note the differing effects of the pebbles, sand and tufts on the base.
I chose the 8 pounder barrel option as opposed to the 12 pounder.
Note the special tufts with white flowers. I got mine from Warbases.
Monday, 1 February 2016
Vapnartak 2016
I'll be driving down to York this coming Sunday. Why, you all ask?
Vapnartak, of course.
I hope it's not like this.
It should be like this.
http://www.yorkwargames.org/Vapnartak.htm
I will have to be up by at least 5am, have my first round of medication, get washed and dressed and have breakfast, have second round of medication, fill the car up with assorted buddies and head south by 6am.
Weather permitting we should arrive around 10am to catch the show opening, should be free entry for an old codger like myself. Purchase plans include a copy of British Grenadier from Caliver, some plastic AWI from whoever, some AWI metal from Kallistra and some magnetic things from Trevor Holland.
Vapnartak in York is a great show for meeting up with some of my English friends who think York is way up North, bless them. I dare say I will bump into a few Scotsmen while I'm there, can't get away from them at all.
Will I meet any of my blogfriends while I am there? Who knows. Catch me if you can.
We should be leaving just after lunch so that the drive back up North is in as much daylight as possible. The Southern (Rebel) Haggis get a bit twitchy on the border as darkness approaches.
Vapnartak, of course.
I hope it's not like this.
It should be like this.
http://www.yorkwargames.org/Vapnartak.htm
I will have to be up by at least 5am, have my first round of medication, get washed and dressed and have breakfast, have second round of medication, fill the car up with assorted buddies and head south by 6am.
Weather permitting we should arrive around 10am to catch the show opening, should be free entry for an old codger like myself. Purchase plans include a copy of British Grenadier from Caliver, some plastic AWI from whoever, some AWI metal from Kallistra and some magnetic things from Trevor Holland.
Vapnartak in York is a great show for meeting up with some of my English friends who think York is way up North, bless them. I dare say I will bump into a few Scotsmen while I'm there, can't get away from them at all.
Will I meet any of my blogfriends while I am there? Who knows. Catch me if you can.
We should be leaving just after lunch so that the drive back up North is in as much daylight as possible. The Southern (Rebel) Haggis get a bit twitchy on the border as darkness approaches.
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